How important are influencers in today’s fashion? For many brands, it is perhaps a tool to amplify their power and influence, not just their sales, but also their social media status. Gucci, like many others, has used these celebrities in its advertising. At the brand’s latest show at Milan Fashion Week, personalities with millions of followers took front-row seats for “Desirably Desirable.”
The mustard yellow carpet and concrete surfaces served as a backdrop for the swivel armchairs, which were installed to witness the show that presented her series of Fall 2023 looks, dressed in a black satin skirt and opera gloves.
Behind the seats — influencers, buyers, journalists, experts, and, above all, celebrities, like A$AP Rocky or Dakota Johnson — were after the privileged status of the participating profilers. The ruling has been called by outlets such as The New York Times and WWD as “a pit of influencers.”
There is a fascinating paradox, whether Gucci intends it or not: how does it relate to others? Do they shape public opinion more than journalists do today? Do you influence people to wear certain clothes more than celebrities?
There is no right or wrong answer. And this is nothing new, even in Brazil, where the main fashion week in Latin America, São Paulo Fashion Week, has just had its last editions, in very privileged places.
She Seems Alive
Gaining (even) a bigger profile on social media is a pressing strategy for Gucci. Recently, the brand, after fighting with Balenciaga for the top podium of the most powerful fashion houses, fell to second place in the list compiled by Lyst Index. Who now takes over Prada?
Despite that, profits are still abounding: it generated more than R$13 million in revenue in the third quarter of 2022 and became the first major luxury brand to build its own universe in the Metaverse region. What many say is the future.
Yet in the midst of all this, Gucci is losing one of its greatest triumphs: creative director Alessandro Michele, who stepped down after nearly seven years.
On the brand’s official Instagram, thousands of followers criticized the decision: “I no longer buy Gucci” or “I return it”, as some users wrote.
The truth is that who now takes over is Sabato Di Sarno, the exValentino. His first collection for Gucci, according to the brand itself, will be released in the spring of 2024.
Back To The Past
Meanwhile, the Italian brand has given back territory by reviving what made it… Gucci.
The sensuality of Tom Ford, who represented the brand in the 90s, and the militancy that Michelle has established in recent years mixed to create a trip to the past. without ceasing to exist. An interesting proposal, since the brand’s vintage pieces, has starred in the looks of great artists, such as Rihanna, Miley Cyrus, and Bella Hadid.
Among the fashion house’s offerings, this season is sweetheart faux fur collars, bodycon dresses with sheer sequins, cropped jeans, and button-down shirts.
On the classic side, Gucci brought rugged tailoring, highlighted by a light gray calfskin suit with a double-breasted jacket and trousers finished off with red shoes, a tribute to the house’s leather heritage. In addition, a brown jacket and lose jeans with high boots sparkled in the eyes.
In contrast, small undergarments and pagan clothing also appeared. A pair of pants with the “GG” logo peeking out from under a satin dress, plus a sheer sequin dress paired with ruffled blue tights. It is also important to mention the presence of the so-called low waist and oversize bags.
The show ended with the brand’s entire design team appearing on the “stage” for the final arc. The point to be made here is that Gucci is much more than just anyone holding the Creative Director role, although this is undoubtedly important to creating current and relevant collections.
It is about the importance of the “collaborative circle”, as the company itself mentioned to the press about the show.
What does Gucci by Sabato De Sarno have in store for us? The path left now is the future. Like Ford and Michele, the creative director has the task of creating a mark on the Italian brand and winning over the youthful audience.
The brand has already taken some initiatives to get their attention: its latest fragrance, Gucci Guilty, has names like Elliot Page, A$AP Rocky, and Julia Garner as the “faces” of the campaign. They are all idols of the new generation.